Saturday 31 August 2013

Of Cycling Comrades and Cousins...from the Okanagan to Gastown


As we drove down that stretch of Highway 1 for the 9th time in 4 days it almost felt like we were locals.  That being said, our familiarity with the drive didn’t stop us staring out of the windows in admiration of the beautiful scenery we were driving through. We were off to see a man we had a met during the very first 2 weeks of our whole world tour.  I say see a “man”, but really Larry felt more like a friend.  Cycling with people for that length of time through those conditions can create bonds that are quite special.
Goat's on a Gate at the Wheel
 
Our new ride.....we wish!




The first few hours of the drive rolled by as we negotiated our way back down to the turn off for the Okanagan Valley.  I had mentioned this place often to Julia and was curious to see how much of it I remembered from all those years ago when I had last been to Armstrong.  Pretty soon we were in the thick of it and the odd bits seemed to strike a chord.  I was recognizing various things – especially the Dairy Queen in Armstrong!
 
Brilliant idea using the river as a float...hundreds of people were on it with beer coolers and all sorts..


On the shores of the Okanagan Lake the countryside just blossomed into beautiful greens and yellows, the hills covered in trees and the lake all different shades of blues.  The skies were dotted with puffy clouds and this seemed to be a very different part of the world to the rest of British Columbia.  The valley is famous for its hot and perfect micro-climate for growing fruit and all around us the orchards and farms had little stalls on the side of the road selling their produce.



Mmmmm.....cherries!
We passed one great place on our left just after we had gone past Vernon I think.  Rather like a motorway service station, if you turned it into a themed, rural service station with dinosaurs and Western themes.  They advertised “everybody’s favourite walking goats”…..which seemed a mite strange.  Camera at the ready, we drove on by and saw the most bizarre thing…..goats walking up a gangplank that led to the top of the main entrance gate.  Here there were wheels that they could turn with their hooves, before they made their way back down the other side!  Salvador Dali would have had a field day on that one!


Muttering about how life in rural communities must get a little bit “particular” for those kinds of things to seem normal, we then drove past a creek on our right where people seemed to be doing much more sensible things.  There were hundreds of people enjoying the sunny Sunday afternoon, floating down a creek on inflatable rafts and tires, some with their cool boxes full of beer.  It looked like such a simple yet perfectly excellent way to spend a Summer’s day.
 
Larry and us at dinner

Eventually we pulled in to Larry’s driveway and there he was, stood at his door, looking almost exactly the same as we had left him in the lobby of the hotel in Saigon back in February.  Sure a little less tanned, but certainly a lot more hale.  The heat and food had taken its toll on some of us.  With a big smile and lots of bustling around as we decanted Burt’s load into our room he had set out for us, we invaded his home.
 
Thank you Larry!!!
The next 18 or so hours were bliss.  Sitting on his deck overlooking the lake in the setting sun, drinking bottle (after bottle) of white wine, reminiscing, talking of the future, chewing the cud and eating a great meal – it all seemed so perfectly relaxing.  For the pair of us slightly road weary travellers it was great to be able to just unwind and Larry’s hospitality asked nothing of us in return.  By the time it was time to go we were truly sorry we had had only one night with him – but such is life and as we’ll definitely be returning to British Columbia in the future, we’ll certainly be invading again and taking him up on his offer of a tour of the local wineries.


Breakfast with Larry that morning we left was so relaxing we realized we had left it a little late to be making our appointments in Vancouver.  We had to be there by 1pm to pick up the keys to our place we were staying in and then immediately drive over to Grenville Island to drop off Burt.  By the time we drove those winding (but stunning) roads through the southern part of the valley over to Vancouver we were well and truly late.


So when we arrived in Gastown, a little flustered and on edge to get things moving, it was a bit of a shock to the system.  We were certainly back in the gritty end of urban humanity here….wow!  The place we had booked via Airbnb was beautiful, full of charm and personality, really comfortable and with a well-stocked kitchen.  Unfortunately Gastown is home to almost every hobo, vagrant, junkie, drunkard, weirdo and nutter in British Columbia.  In fact the only people that didn’t seem to be one of that rather select group of people were Asians, tourists or both.


I've never looked slimmer!


Julia was a little less than impressed by the time we left Vancouver, especially having liked it so much when we first arrived a week earlier.




Typical Germans!  Always cheating ;o)


We unpacked Burt as quickly as possible and I left Julia with the father and uncle of the lady we were renting from, then drove to drop off Burt.  By the time I got back we were both wiped out so we rested up and went for a bite to eat a few blocks away.  My goodness that was a shock!  Our first impressions of Gastown were as nothing compared to the full on sensory assault we got as we walked the streets at sunset back from the sushi place we had found.


 Day two was …..well, not much to write about.  We stayed at home.  All day.  I went to the Chinese supermarket on the corner and discovered Julia’s kryptonite……a pack of dried cubes of gluten! 

Day three we wanted to go on a boat tour and see Vancouver from the sea.  Unfortunately we couldn’t decide on one and most seemed to insist you eat a more than likely over-priced buffet (probably where there profits come from).  So instead we went on a bike ride on a cycle path around Vancouver.  Our landlords allowed their guests the use of their two bikes, which was perfect.  Off we went and soon were cycling through downtown Vancouver.  Very different to Gastown…but then we came to the port area and some of the people wandering the promenade were proper nutters!  Very strange how our experience of this city seemed to feature so highly on the insane-o-scale.



Once we were out of the marina area though everything calmed down and we were amongst families taking their kids to the beach or similar couples taking advantage of the beautiful weather.  We stopped along the way to enjoy some cherries that Larry had given us at a beach then pushed on and back around the headland to home in dear old Gastown.


One for you Rudi....the joke that just keeps giving

Pineapple Island


That afternoon we were due to meet a cousin of mine, Melita.  It had been quite a few years since last we had seen each other and a lot had changed / happened in the meantime.  For a start, she had never met Julia and of course, as you would expect, Julia had never met her either!  It was lovely to see the two of them together though.  They clicked almost immediately and soon we were sitting in a bar by the marina, enjoying a cocktail and reminiscing about dad and talking about our travels.






Julia had obviously eaten a clown








The "my bum hurts" pose

Melita showed us other parts of Vancouver, stopping to see the university where her son, Sasha, studies.  Then it was off for a bite to eat with Sasha and Andre her husband.  Again, it was excellent to see them, especially as the last time I had seen Sasha was in Paris, when I was 18, he was a baby and I had hair!  Clearly even more has changed since the last time I saw him.
 
Melita and us on the beach

She grew!



Unfortunately we couldn’t stay long as we had to be up before the crack of dawn to catch an early flight to New York.  We were connecting in Chicago, a hateful airport and so it would be a long trip before we landed in LaGuardia Airport.  Melita drove us home and when we said our goodbyes it was lovely to see Julia so happy to have met her.



We had a couple of hours sleep, then we were up and at it again.  A quick bout in the kitchen, making some sandwiches for the long journey whilst facetiming with mum back in the UK, then into the cab which thankfully arrived on time.  Check-in at the airport went off without a hitch and before long we were sitting around waiting for the plane that was to take us to our next exciting destination.  New York……a city which was cool enough in and of itself. 

A photo for mum.....look at those roses

This time though, we had imported our own fun.  4 friends, 2 from London and 2 from Sydney, would be joining us in an apartment in Tribeca for 14 days of fun.  We couldn’t wait to see them all again.

Friday 30 August 2013

A night NOT in Kamloops and 4 in Canmore


Holding the steering wheel was certainly an interesting sensation as we drove away from Whistler.  All that “hanging on like grim death” to the handlebars and brakes had certainly taken its toll.  We had a fair way to drive, around 4 hours or so to Kamloops, but the guides had all said the drive would be wonderful to see and there would be little or no police along the way.
Stopping off on the road for a beautiful gluten free lunch in Revelstoke

Bear Hunting on the Ski Lift

We stopped briefly for fuel then we were off…..and the road wound on and on.  Pretty soon we were less than 150kms away and we came to a horrible realization.  The hotel we had booked was somehow about 55km out of our way.  Yup, in some weird mistake, I had booked a hotel that was in a resort called Sun Peaks.  We had to make a choice now.  Did we push on through to Sun Peaks, suck up the extra 110km and in essence 2 hours of driving, or did we plump for the ore luxurious route of dropping out cheap hotel in Sun Peaks and finding somewhere in Kamloops.




As it turns out, Kamloops had some kind of thing going on so “cheap accommodation” was not so cheap.  We stopped briefly, then decided that we’d be frugal and drive up to Sun Peaks.  The journey out there was kind of weird.  It felt almost other-worldly as we wound our way along the backroads of British Columbia.  At one point two huge owls took to the air from the side of the road and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid hitting them.  All very strange.

I never thought I'd be so happy to see a road with only 2 lanes


Eventually we arrived and the hotel reception was unmanned.  Sun Peaks was feeling like Twin Peaks.  Then an Australian manager came down to greet us, we got up to our room and …..collapsed in bed after a much needed shower.  Wiping the grime off our bodies was bliss.




Next morning we slept in somewhat as although we had a long way to go we really wanted to just enjoy our comfy bed.  By the time we were on the road again, the sun was up high in the sky and the world around us didn’t seem quite so weird.  In fact it was beautiful – just beautiful.  From here to Canmore, our stop for the next 6 days, we had the dubious pleasure of mainly single lane highways and thank goodness Julia was driving is all I can say.  God loves the Canadians, but seriously…..do they HAVE to drive so slowly?  The speed limit is set at a ridiculous 70km/h!  That’s 45mph in real money…..are you KIDDING!?

Lake Louise in a rare moment.....all the tourists were behind us


Much gnashing of teeth later we eventually arrived at the new stretch of 2 lane road that made up the last 150 or so km before we would get to Canmore.  My goodness we were pleased to see that stretch there.


One afternoon the heavens opened and we had a full on hail storm!


The countryside on both sides of us was immense.  Just huge swathes of forested mountainsides leading steeply up to snow covered peaks that shone in the bright sunshine against a clear blue sky.  Really the stuff of postcards.  Our time in Canmore was hopefully going to be spent fishing and doing the odd small hike, with gems like Lake Louise and the Minniwanka Loop to drive around.  What a great name!  I was by now desperate to see a bear and a guy we met in the poker saloons of Vegas had been adamant that we’d see one up here.
Off to catch the bears at sunrise......fat chance




Our landlady for the next 4 nights was a lovely woman that showed us our little studio style space on the bottom floor of her house, then disappeared upstairs and left us to our own devices.  Which mainly consisted of finding any way we could to protect ourselves from the really rather aggressive mosquitos that seemed to infest the area.  Within minutes (I want to say seconds, because it certainly felt that way) we had our first bites and so Julia went into full “MacGyver” mode, erecting a very solid looking mosquito net construction over our bed.  That would save us many a sleepless night…..plus it always looks kind of romantic.


Castle Rock in the sun


Somewhere in there is the bear :)
The rest of the time we just slathered on the DEET and burned our remaining mosquito coils at the front door.  Having a full on kitchen again was lovely.  We went to the supermarket, marveling once more at a part of the world that managed to be more expensive than Sydney for groceries.  As we have travelled the USA and Canada we have been very shocked at just how expensive it is to eat non-processed and non-GMO foods.  Add “Gluten Free” to the front of a packet of pasta/cereal/bread and you can triple the price!  How the average North American family can afford to eat fresh food is beyond me as I reckon it must cost in the region of $100 a week to feed a family of 4 on good food.




Back to our trip…..so aside from being prohibitively expensive to eat and rife with killer mosquitos, Canmore is also just recovering from some pretty horrendous floods.  We knew this and as we drove into the little suburb where our house was located we saw what looked like some work to build an emergency run-off channel in case of future flooding.  How wrong we were.  It seems the face of the mountain literally slid off and came running down this channel, taking with it most of the banks of the little creek that normally ran there and undercutting a lot of the houses along the creek.  When our landlady explained this, we looked again and saw how one side of some of the houses was literally standing in thin air!  Of course as this is a holiday town and most of the houses are people’s 2nd homes, neither their insurance nor the government’s emergency funds cover them, so some families face ruin or having to walk away from their homes.





Not quite Iguazu but still beautiful
Another after effect of the flooding was to have ruined the fishing along the waterways.  With the high water flow and slew of debris that came tumbling down the channels, fish populations were disturbed and we were not able to get a guide to take us out.  Shame.  So instead we did a few trips around the valley and spent most of our energies hunting down my bear.  We tried at Lake Louise skilift, which was apparently the best place to see them.  But unfortunately we went too late (midday).  We tried at sunset……no dice.  So we decided to wake up early to get in the car and catch a bear at sunrise……




…..and we got one, fleeting glimpse of a black bear meandering through a forested hillside.  Had it not been for a few cars parked on the side of the road we would have driven right past the creature.  What a wonderful moment to see it in the wild.


Julia attacked by horse flies at lunch


After the success of that sighting we tried again, next day, to catch a bear in the wild.  This time we left really early and were in the right places at the right time to see wildlife.  We saw NOTHING!  A few deer.  The odd bird.  Other than that?  Nada.  Zilch.  The drive home was a trifle strained as we both realized how futile the whole thing had been. 






Another day we did what we thought would be a very long drive up to Jasper; which turned out to not take that long as we were both getting better and better at overtaking the snail-paced Canadians in front of us!  As usual, British Columbia stepped up to the mark and delivered some utterly breath-taking vistas for us to enjoy, especially where we stopped for lunch by the side of the 




Our time in Canmore can best be described as a lovely break from travelling around, that somehow included quite a lot of driving around and staring at scenery.  The nature we saw there we’ll never forget, the moment of seeing the bear will stay with me forever and I would really like to think that one day we’ll get to drive up here again.




Next up on our trip was the return journey to Vancouver, via Penticton and a night with one of our friends from the cycling journey we took through Thailand/Cambodia and Vietnam.  Larry had very kindly extended the hospitality of his home to us and we were really looking forward to seeing him again.